How to Hit Pickleball Groundstrokes: Forehand & Backhand

A pickleball groundstroke is any shot hit after the ball bounces once on your side of the court. While dinks and volleys dominate play near the kitchen line, groundstrokes — specifically the forehand groundstroke and backhand groundstroke — control pace from the baseline, execute returns of serve, and produce third-shot drives. Mastering both gives you the range to keep opponents from camping permanently at the net.

Whether you’re a beginner building your first reliable pickleball shots or an intermediate player whose groundstrokes pop up too often, the mechanics are consistent: footwork before swing, contact in front of the body, and a controlled follow-through. Tennis converts recognize the motion immediately; players coming from badminton or table tennis will find groundstrokes require a different kind of full-body engagement — which this guide covers step by step.

The most widespread groundstroke error isn’t a bad swing — it’s reaching for the ball with the arm instead of repositioning the feet first. Off-balance contact produces errors, popups, and weak returns regardless of swing form. Every mechanical point below traces back to that one principle: the feet establish the shot before the paddle does.

Below is a complete breakdown of forehand and backhand mechanics, a direct comparison of the two shots, five targeted drills, and the advanced concepts that move groundstrokes from technically correct to genuinely effective.

What Is a Groundstroke in Pickleball?

A groundstroke in pickleball is any shot that makes contact with the ball after it has bounced on your side of the court, typically struck from the baseline or mid-court. Unlike volleys — hit before the ball touches the ground — groundstrokes give you time to read trajectory, reset your feet, and execute a deliberate swing with full weight transfer.

Two groundstroke types exist: the forehand groundstroke, hit on the paddle-arm side using a forward-opening swing, and the backhand groundstroke, hit on the non-paddle side by rotating the paddle arm across the body. Both can be delivered flat, with topspin, or with backspin depending on tactical intent, and both require a balanced, stationary stance at contact wherever possible.

Groundstrokes account for fewer total shots in pickleball than in tennis — most points are resolved at or near the kitchen line — but they are structurally unavoidable. Every return of serve is a groundstroke. Every third-shot drive is a groundstroke. Any time an opponent pushes you behind the baseline, you hit groundstrokes to earn your way back to the net.

Forehand vs. Backhand — How They Differ

The forehand groundstroke is the dominant-side shot. For right-handed players, the ball is on the right side of the body; for left-handers, the left. The forehand aligns naturally with rotational body mechanics — the swing opens outward, reach is at its maximum, and the hip-to-shoulder chain engages most easily. Most players generate peak groundstroke pace from the forehand and rely on it for the majority of baseline shots.

The pickleball backhand is hit on the non-dominant side. The paddle arm crosses in front of the body rather than extending outward, which shortens reach slightly and demands more deliberate shoulder rotation to create power. Players who invest in a reliable backhand gain tactical unpredictability that opponents can’t bypass by targeting one side.

When Groundstrokes Happen During Play

Groundstrokes occur in three recurring situations. First, returning serves — every return after a serve is a groundstroke, making it the most consistent groundstroke moment in the game. Second, baseline rallies — when an opponent drives the ball deep, a groundstroke redirects with depth and pace. Third, transition-zone bounces — moving from the baseline toward the kitchen, you may encounter balls that bounce before you can volley; a controlled groundstroke lets you advance rather than retreat.

Recognizing these three contexts means you can pre-position your feet for a groundstroke rather than reacting late and reaching. Pickleball return of serve mechanics — including depth targets, positioning, and rally patterns — build directly on the forehand and backhand groundstroke foundations covered below.

How to Hit the Pickleball Forehand Groundstroke

The pickleball forehand groundstroke begins before the paddle moves — it begins with your feet. The swing is the last element in a sequence. Here is the complete mechanical order:

1. Ready position: Knees bent, paddle held in front of the body at roughly waist height, weight on the balls of the feet.
2. Read and move: As the ball’s trajectory becomes clear, move laterally to get behind where it will land. Don’t reach — reposition.
3. Pivot shoulders and hips: Rotate so your non-paddle shoulder faces the incoming ball, coiling the rotational energy you’ll release in the swing.
4. Compact backswing: Take the paddle back to approximately hip height. A shorter backswing is more consistent in pickleball than long wind-ups.
5. Step forward: As the swing begins, step the front foot toward the intended target, shifting weight from back foot to front.
6. Contact in front: Make contact slightly in front of the front hip before the ball reaches the top of its bounce. The paddle face is angled slightly open (tipped back from vertical) for controlled, upward ball flight over the net.
7. Follow through: Drive the paddle forward and upward through impact — don’t stop the swing at contact.

Ready Position and Footwork

The ready position for a baseline groundstroke sits a step or two behind the baseline — slightly further back than kitchen-line play — giving you room to move forward into the ball without being jammed. Paddle up, knees softly bent, feet shoulder-width apart.

Split stepping is the footwork skill that connects good positioning to clean groundstrokes. A split step is a small hop timed to land on the balls of both feet at the exact moment your opponent makes contact. This resets balance and primes movement in any direction. Players who skip the split step arrive late, reach, and produce weak shots; players who split step consistently arrive early and execute with control.

After split-stepping, use two to three small adjustment steps — not a lunge — to reach your ideal hitting position. The goal is to be set and balanced before the ball arrives, not still moving at contact.

The Swing: Backswing, Contact Point, Follow-Through

The backswing in pickleball should be compact. A backswing that brings the paddle just past the hip is sufficient for 90% of groundstrokes. Overswinging — a common habit carried over from tennis — creates timing errors and popups rather than the deep, flat drives players are aiming for.

Contact point is the most outcome-critical variable. Hitting the ball too close to the body restricts rotation and produces an arm-only shot. Too far forces a reach that destabilizes balance. Ideal contact sits roughly one arm’s length in front of the front hip, at a comfortable extension where the shoulder, core, and arm all contribute.

The follow-through extends the paddle forward in the direction of the shot and naturally arcs upward. Players who stop the swing at contact produce shots that miss direction and tend to fall into the net. IPTPA-certified coaches consistently document that shoulder-driven strokes with complete follow-throughs generate fewer unforced errors than elbow-based or wrist-snap groundstrokes.

Common Forehand Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)

The table below covers the four most common forehand errors and targeted fixes.

Addressing footwork first and swing mechanics second matches how certified pickleball coaches sequence instruction — because the footwork error is the underlying cause of most swing errors.

How to Hit the Pickleball Backhand Groundstroke

The pickleball backhand groundstroke uses the non-dominant side of the body and requires deliberate shoulder-and-hip rotation to generate power. Many beginners find it less intuitive at first, but the backhand becomes consistent faster than expected once the body mechanics are internalized rather than forced through the arm alone.

Complete mechanical sequence for the one-handed backhand:

1. Identify the backhand: The ball is approaching the non-paddle side. Recognize it early and move your feet.
2. Pivot the paddle shoulder toward the ball: Rotate shoulders and hips so the paddle shoulder faces the ball’s approach direction. The paddle arm swings across the body into the backswing.
3. Backswing across the body: Bring the paddle arm across to approximately shoulder height. The non-paddle arm extends for balance or holds behind the body — whichever feels natural.
4. Step forward: As the swing begins, step the front foot toward the intended target.
5. Contact in front: Hit the ball in front of the body before the top of the bounce. Wrist stays firm — no flipping at contact.
6. Follow through: Drive the paddle forward and across the body, completing rotation through the shoulder and hip.

Body Setup and Grip for the Backhand

The continental grip — handle held as if shaking hands with the paddle edge facing up — works for both forehand and backhand groundstrokes and is the standard starting point. Some players shift to an eastern backhand grip for enhanced topspin potential on the backhand, though the continental remains versatile for all shot types.

The most important setup element is the hip-and-shoulder coil. A player who pivots only the shoulders — leaving the hips square to the net — produces an arm-only backhand with minimal power. Before any swing motion, deliberately rotate until the paddle shoulder faces the ball. On a wide backhand, the back will partially face the net — and that’s correct positioning.

Contact Zone and Follow-Through on the Backhand

The backhand contact zone sits slightly closer to the body than the forehand, since the arm crosses in front rather than extending outward. Contact should occur roughly in line with the front hip at a comfortable arm extension. Reaching too far forward on the backhand destabilizes the wrist and produces shanks.

The follow-through on the backhand swings the paddle arm forward and across the body, finishing above the paddle shoulder. The “chicken-wing” error — collapsing the elbow inward at contact — kills both power and direction. Focus on extending the paddle arm fully through the ball and driving the follow-through with the shoulder. The hip opening through the shot generates the power; the arm is the conduit, not the source.

Forehand vs. Backhand — Which Should You Use?

The forehand generates more power for most players, while the backhand provides tactical variety once developed. In match play, choice is often dictated by ball location — wide to the paddle side means forehand, wide to the non-paddle side means backhand — but players with both shots well-developed have meaningful options; players with only one reliable groundstroke are predictable.

Here is a direct comparison of when each shot is the stronger choice:

A key tactical point: running around the backhand — shuffling toward the forehand to avoid the backhand — opens a large court gap on the dominant side that experienced players exploit immediately. At the 3.5+ level, avoiding the backhand costs more points than having a slightly weaker one. The correct investment is developing it, not hiding it.

Third-shot strategy connects here too: the third-shot drop in pickleball can be executed with either a forehand or backhand groundstroke motion from the baseline, and knowing which side gives you better feel for a soft, arcing ball affects how you position for that critical third shot.

5 Drills to Improve Your Pickleball Groundstrokes

The five drills below target specific groundstroke weaknesses: placement, footwork, consistency, spin control, and court transition. Run them in order — earlier drills build the physical skill that later drills apply in context.

Drill 1 — Target Practice (Placement Focus)

Set up three cones on the opposite side of the court: deep backhand corner, deep forehand corner, and center baseline. Hit 30 forehand groundstrokes, rotating between targets. Count how many land within a paddle-length of the cone. A score of 20/30 or better indicates solid directional control. Repeat with the backhand. This drill forces purposeful placement rather than simply clearing the net.

Drill 2 — Split-Step Reaction (Footwork Foundation)

Stand at the center baseline. A partner feeds balls alternately to the forehand and backhand side with no predictable pattern. Before each swing, visibly complete a split-step and take two deliberate positioning steps before contacting the ball. If you reach without resetting, the point doesn’t count. This drill directly eliminates the root cause of most groundstroke errors.

Drill 3 — Cross-Court Consistency Rally

Rally cross-court forehand-to-forehand from the baseline, counting consecutive groundstrokes without a fault. Target 25 consecutive shots. Then switch to backhand cross-court. Cross-court rallies naturally create the correct geometric angles and teach depth management — cross-court balls clear a lower net height than down-the-line shots, making them forgiving targets for building consistency.

Drill 4 — Topspin/Backspin Alternation (Spin Awareness)

Hit 10 groundstrokes with intentional topspin (low-to-high swing path, paddle face slightly closed at contact) followed by 10 with backspin (high-to-low path, open face). Alternating deliberately builds tactile awareness of paddle angle and swing direction, so spin becomes a conscious tool rather than an accident. Prioritize precision over pace here.

Drill 5 — Groundstroke to Net Approach (Transition Simulation)

Hit one deep groundstroke, then immediately advance toward the kitchen line and volley the next feed. This simulates the most important match pattern: force your opponent back with a quality groundstroke, seize the net, and finish the point. It builds groundstroke depth and transitional footwork simultaneously.

For context on how all pickleball shots connect within a full point structure — from serve through baseline play to kitchen-line finishing — that overview explains the complete shot taxonomy groundstrokes belong to.

By now you have a complete mechanical picture of the forehand and backhand groundstroke: setup, swing, contact, follow-through, and drills for both. Those fundamentals cover what most 3.0–3.5 players need to build reliable baseline shots. What they don’t yet reveal are the biomechanical and contextual layers that make groundstrokes powerful, well-timed, and strategically sharp rather than just technically correct — the gap between a player who executes the steps and one whose groundstrokes actually put opponents under pressure. The next section covers those finer points for players ready to go beyond the mechanics.

Going Deeper: What Separates Good Groundstrokes from Great Ones

The Kinetic Chain — Using Your Whole Body

The kinetic chain is the sequence of body segments that transmit energy through a groundstroke: feet → ankles → knees → hips → torso → shoulder → elbow → wrist → paddle. When each segment fires in order, the resulting force at the paddle face far exceeds what a shoulder-and-arm-only swing can produce.

Hip rotation is the most commonly skipped link. Players who rotate only their shoulders — leaving the hips square to the net — generate roughly 40–60% of available groundstroke force. Players who drive the hips open first feel an immediate power increase with no extra arm effort. The practical cue: on the forehand, point your non-paddle hand toward the incoming ball during the backswing, then pull it sharply back as you swing forward. That pulling motion naturally triggers hip opening and fires the kinetic chain without overthinking it.

On the backhand, the hip turn must be more deliberate because the body’s natural tendency is to stay square. Practice the backhand coil in isolation — rotating until the paddle shoulder faces the ball — before adding swing mechanics.

Taking the Ball Early vs. Late

Contacting the ball early — at or near the top of the bounce rather than after it drops — delivers two tactical advantages. First, it gives the opponent less time to recover position. Second, the ball carries natural pace from the court surface at peak height, reducing the swing force needed to achieve depth.

PPR Lead Clinician Sarah Ansboury teaches that rather than overswinging to generate pace, experienced players open the paddle face, step into the ball at its peak, and let the ball’s own energy provide the primary power source. Late contact — after the ball has descended below net height — forces a more upward swing path, produces a higher, floated ball, and gives opponents more time to react.

The most efficient training tool for isolating early-contact timing is a ball machine set to a consistent feed height and speed. Many players report this single timing adjustment transforms a defensive groundstroke push into an offensive weapon. Players looking for best pickleball paddles for power will find that stiffer thermoformed constructions amplify pace on early-contact groundstrokes without requiring a bigger swing — keeping the compact mechanics above fully intact.

Pickleball Groundstrokes vs. Tennis Groundstrokes

Players transitioning from tennis notice three specific differences requiring adjustment. First, the swing is shorter: the lighter ball and smaller court reward compact, efficient strokes over long, looping groundstrokes. Tennis overswing habits produce timing errors and overpowered shots in pickleball. Second, groundstrokes are used less often: in tennis, nearly every shot is a groundstroke; in pickleball, most points resolve at the non-volley zone. Tennis players must consciously reorient toward the kitchen as the end goal, using groundstrokes to transition forward rather than win from the baseline. Third, depth targeting differs: a ball landing within three feet of the baseline pushes the opponent back effectively, but angle and third-shot setup matter more than raw depth. Tennis cross-court winner mechanics need recalibration to pickleball’s shorter court geometry.

Should You Try a Two-Handed Backhand?

The two-handed backhand is a legitimate option in pickleball and offers two advantages: additional power from the second arm and reduced wrist instability on firm drives. Players with strong tennis two-handers sometimes find the transition to a one-handed pickleball backhand slower than expected and choose to retain the two-hander to accelerate early development.

The trade-off is reach: the two-handed backhand requires both hands on the paddle, shortening effective reach by roughly six to eight inches compared to the one-hander. In pickleball, where kitchen-line play demands quick, fully extended reaches on resets and dinks, that shorter reach becomes a liability. Most coaches recommend the one-handed backhand as the primary development path, treating the two-hander as a situational power weapon rather than a default stroke.